Great for using as a piered suspended slab on filled sites.These slabs provide a higher energy rating and due to this are becoming more popular.Just like the raft slab, the edges are thickened with an edge beam, and the depth of the edge beam and boxes varies depending on the type of soil. They are set out in such a way that the slab has a grid of beams at 1200mm centres in both directions under the flat floor surface. The slab is set up on a grid of cardboard or polystyrene boxes that are 1200mm x 1200mm. The name really describes the shape of the finished slab if you could look at it from underneath. Very important to have the whole site drained appropriately.Can end up with too many stiffening beams on homes with many corners, increasing cost.Uses slightly less concrete than a waffle pod slab, sometimes more labour and reinforcement.Most concreters are experienced with this type of slab.The more reactive the clay (that is the more it shrinks when it’s dry and swells when it’s wet), the deeper the edge beams and the spacing of the stiffening beams. Clay soils require deeper edge beams and stiffening beams. Sandy soils require no stiffening beams or shallow edge beams. The depth and spacing of the edge and stiffening beams is dictated by the type of soil the slab will be sitting on. These beams are spaced at a maximum of 6000mm to a minimum of 4000mm. Throughout the slab there are also stiffening beams which are 300mm wide and vary in depth up to 700mm. This slab is usually 100mm thick with thickened edges varying between 300mm and up to 700mm deep. In fact, a lot of builders refer to this type of slab as a floating slab. With an interesting name, it can make you think that the slab floats like a raft. There are two common ways to build a slab for a house: the raft slab and the waffle pod slab.
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